Soap Base - Clear or White - 500 grams, Larger sizes available

Melt/Pour Glycerine Soap Base - Clear or White. Available in sizes 500 grams, 1kg and 4 kg increments. 

Ingredients: Water, glycerine, sorbitol, sodium palmate, sodium kernelate, propylene glycol, sodium, sucrose, sodium laurel sulfate (less than 5%). Contains no alcohol.

HEATING: There is a bit of a 'knack' to heating clear base without creating too many bubbles, whist retaining its crystal clear clarity.  Clear soap base needs to be cooked at a much, much lower temperature than white soap base. It's trickier to use for beginners, but don't be afraid!! It's only soap and you can't get it wrong, ever! (Believe me, I've come very very close to ruining soap and I've burnt it many times when I was learning, but I still used the soap, even though it didn't smell very nice).

For best results, heat soap on a low temperature setting using a slow cooker or crockpot. The longer you take to cook it gently, the less air bubbles you will have. If you cook it too fast and too hot, the water in the soap will evaporate and volume/weight will be lost from the soap, so you will lose around 10% of your original soap weight. A saucepan on the stovetop can also be used, although soap can burn easily this way - a steel mixing bowl on top of a pan of simmering water is a more reliable method of heating soap evenly on the stovetop. A little distilled water or bottled water can be added first to the cooking vessel, to facilitate melting of the soap. 
Or, simply melt soap in a suitable container in the microwave, then pour into a suitable mould. Ceramic teapots and glass pyrex jugs used in the microwave are ideal, as the handle remains cool. 

MOULDS: Household moulds you can use for soap include washed milk cartons; Pringles chip containers; cupcake moulds; silicone baking moulds; ice cube moulds; chocolate moulds; jelly moulds.
Any tools including bakeware used for soap should not be used again for food. 

ADDITIVES: Endless possibilities! Soft, cooked leafy type vegetables and juice, soft fruit rind/juice, herbal/food powders, vegetable oils, fragrant oils, essential oils, cosmetic butters, finely ground nuts, coffee, teas, soft herbs, soft flower petals, clays, honey, seaweed sheets, aloe vera and more. Too many dried flower petals in soap sinks to the bottom and fresh flower petals turn brown in soap base. Milk products and powdered products don't look that great in a clear base! But...don't let that stop you experimenting with what works and what doesn't!  Any dried fruit/vegetable powder products should be pre-mixed with water, otherwise they will be a dry, lumpy mess if you add it to warm soap in dry form :) 

COLOURANTS: Dry synthetic oxide pigments mixed with water, clays, synthetic water based dyes, food dyes, natural dyes such as beetroot juice, spinach juice, teas, annatto seed powder, turmeric powder. Food dyes may result in a less stable colour compared to cosmetic dyes but they are still safe to use for soap. Mix powders with water to a runny paste, then add to soap base. 

Clear soap base produces a brilliant pure black soap bar when black oxide is added to it! Adding too much oxide will run out of the soap when you wash with it, but it does not stain your hands/body generally and rinses away cleanly. Well, as long as you haven't added a kilogram of oxide to it, that is...

We hope you enjoy making your own soap! It will provide hours of fun for all. After many years, it's still fun for me too :)